The ideal site for a clematis is one which will retain moisture throughout the growing season but will not become waterlogged during winter.  These conditions can be created by adding organic matter to the soil when planting and providing shade for the roots in the form of greavel, bark, or, more naturally, other plants.  Avoid planting too close to walls and fences as these areas can remain very dry.

When you have selected the best position for your clematis dig a large hole (ideally 18in x 18in x 18in) and fork over the sides and base to improve drainage.  If well-rotted manure or garden compost is available, place a thick layer in the base of the hole and then cover with a 2in layer of soil.  If you have chosed a large-flowered cultivar, this needs to have 4in of stem below ground – all other species need only 1in of stem below ground.  Herbaceous and evergreen clematis do not need to be planted deeply.

If the plant is dry, place in a bucket of water for 30 minutes before planting.  Fill in the planting hole with the soil that has been removed, mix in two handfuls of bonemeal plus two spadefuls of compost, and firm, being careful not to tread too close to the stems.  Water thoroughly – about 2 gallons.  Two clematis may be planted in the same hole but for sanity’s sake it is advisable that they both belong to the same pruning group.

Clematis have huge appetites.  Lightly hoe a good gerneral fertiliser into the soil around the clematis in the Spring, carefully avoiding the stems.  Follow this with an alternate weekly feed of tomato fertiliser and Phostrogen, making sure the ground has been well watered first so that the feed goes down to the roots rather than running off a dry surface.  However, once the buds start to form, stop feeding as this will shorten the flowering season.  In the case of Group 2 clematis, when the first flush is over resume feeding until the later buds appear.  An autumn mulch of well-rotted manure plus bonemeal is always appreciated.